Tentenublo Xérico is Roberto Oliván’s tribute to four generations of growers — Teodoro, Félix, Ignacio, and Roberto — who have cared for the land of Tentenublo. Each year, the label features his loved ones, and for the 2019 bottling, it’s his son who takes pride of place! And as if that weren’t enough, the 2019 vintage was awarded 92+ points by Robert Parker!
Roberto Oliván is undoubtedly one of Rioja’s rising stars and among the most exciting producers in the region. He represents the fourth generation of a winemaking family that has been cultivating grapes in Rioja for over 30 years. His vision was to showcase the quality of Rioja’s terroir with a fresh, modern approach and minimal use of oak. He made a bold entrance into the market in 2011, reviving the family winery in the area of Viñaspre. There, he cultivates Tempranillo, Garnacha, Viura, and Malvasía across 10 hectares of family-owned vineyards, split into 30 small plots. Nestled at the steep foothills of the Sierra de Cantabria, the altitude reaches up to 700 metres, and the clash between Atlantic and Mediterranean climates creates extreme weather conditions. So, the name “Tentenublo” comes from the traditional ringing of bells used to ward off hailstorms during the grape ripening season.
Tentenublo Xérico is made from grapes grown in various plots, aged between 15 and 50 years, at altitudes of 550–700 metres. The vineyards are farmed organically, and the blend consists of 85% Tempranillo and 15% Viura. Roberto always adds a touch of white grapes to his reds to bring complexity and elegance. The soils are limestone-based, and the combination of very dry summers and cool winters introduces the concept of “xeric humidity” — or as he calls it, Xeric Torriortent, hence the name Xérico.
Now here’s the interesting bit… Around 20% of the grapes are fermented as whole clusters and are traditionally foot-trodden. Each plot is fermented separately using ambient yeasts to capture the unique character of each terroir. Fermentation takes place in concrete tanks and chestnut foudres, followed by malolactic conversion and ageing for 7 months.
The result is an explosion of aromas — violet flowers, blackberry, and ripe, deep-red cherries. This wine has the freshness of youth, but also the warmth and comfort of something familiar, rustic, and traditional.
Try it… yesterday!
